Saturday, December 24, 2016

Lesa 60th Birthday - Las Vegas ACM Awards 2016

It's March 30, 2016 - Well in advance of Lesa's 60th birthday on August 25, 2016.   A little surprise never hurt anyone (except a few years ago when my brother-in-law Jim surprised my sister Sherry on her birthday - she hates surprises - I think his leg is pretty much healed by now).

Our overall plan was as follows:
  • March 30 - Stay with Celeste (Jim was in CA opening a new restaurant - Celeste was traveling there the next day)
  • March 31 - Move to the Hilton Elara Resort, Tobe arrived from Houston in the afternoon
  • April 1 - Tim arrived...stay at Elara
  • April 2 - Melisa arrived from CA after dropping the kids off with her Mom...Attend the ACM Party for a Cause....stay at Elara
  • April 3 - ACM Award TV show at MGM Grand, stay at Elara
  • April 4 - Kids left, we went back to Celeste's even though she was now also in CA
  • April 5 - We flew home
Wednesday - Thursday
We flew into Las Vegas and Lesa's cousin was so generous to pick us up at the airport.    After Celeste picked us up, we made it about half way home and had to stop for a beer and some eats at the Yard House - great beer and food place.  Lesa and Celeste got all caught up - lots of Portuguese stories and chatter flying both directions at once.



The hand waving and chatter started well before we got to the Yard House...

This is not a mirror - There are hundreds of beers to try at the Yard House.   We only got through 5 of them.

Kissing Cousins - not sure how we got out without stopping at that pediped in the background.   They probably don't charge enough and Lesa was holding out for a Spa.

After the beers, we went to Celeste's beautiful home, I ran around the neighborhood to get my 4 miles in, we cleaned up and went to a superb little Italian grill called Honey Salt.  The NCAA march madness was going on so I watched some bball knowing I'd be laying down a few bets in the days to come.
One of the best Italian Grills
We got up the next day, saw Celeste off to CA and we left midday for the Elara where we'd meet Tobe in mid-afternoon.

The Elara is a Hilton Timeshare property and is parked right in the midst of the strip - beside MGM and Planet Hollywood and a pretty good sized mall.
Turns out that our 3 bedroom suite was in the upper left corner of the picture - great views of Vegas.
Planet Hollywood is attached to the Elara by a mall and a 2 minute indoors walk.
We could not check in until 4PM, so we spent the afternoon exploring and getting to know the pool area and the bartenders.  If you want to know what's going on - those are the guys to check with.

The Elara pool
On Sunday prior to the ACM Award show in the evening, we rented one of the cabanas - you can get out of the hot sun and have your own attendant.   Since we are owners at the Elara, we got the cabana for free as long as we drank $90 worth of drinks.   Think about it - Tobe, Tim - only $90??

Once we got checked in, our place was awesome.   We were on the 30th something floor all the way to the end of the building...a long walk to black double doors leading into our 3 bedroom suite.   when we walked in, all the shades were drawn.   The shades are electronic, so a single switch raises them all and we had an incredible view of Vegas.   We ran around for awhile like little kids just checking everything out.
Our living area.   The black window turns into a 105 inch TV screen if you want.  Everything was first class.

Our master bedroom.  Again electronic shades to keep the Vegas lights out at night.

I already look like crap and we are just getting started...picture from our room
Like I said, Tobe arrived Thursday afternoon so we went out to dinner at a place he remembered from one of his business trips - an Asian persuasion restaurant called KOI...very good.

We had spent considerable time by the pool awaiting check-in.   As you can imagine, Lesa had been drinking.
The three of us proceeded to the Planet Hollywood casino after a 2 hour dinner.   Planet Hollywood is attached to a mall that Elara is attached to.   Elara does not have gambling (kind of nice to get away from the noise), so PH became our source of gambling...2 minute walk.  Lesa played blackjack and eventually hit the sack while Tobe and I stayed down and played 3 card poker.   I had never played it before, but my new favorite game.  We played a little PaiGow...my second favorite.

I think we made it to bed by 2 AM...we knew the next night would be touch.   First night when we ALL get together is usually full of stories.   Some of them will stay in Las Vegas.  The next morning we had brunch at Caesars - best buffet I've ever had...you likely can not name a food or culture that is not present.


Friday - Saturday

Tim arrived the next morning and the partying began.   We spent most of the remainder of the day around the pool again.   We did a little exploring again.   Both Tobe and Tim, at different times, discovered this cutout and had to have a picture.

Tobe's beer on the podium
Tim was not going to let his drink go - someone could steal it




















If you pay attention, you will rarely see either T or T without a drink....it was one of those weekends to remember (or try to remember).
Lesa explored, too
Most of the day was spent catching up with Tim and having poolside drinks.   At one point I did my 4 mile run down the main strip.   Ended up at the festival grounds (2 miles away) and upgraded our "Party for a Cause" tickets to VIP....gave us access to roof, closer, and chairs.   More about that Party later.

After being poolside and doing a bit of gambling, we reconvened in the room for cleanup and then headed out for the evening.

First stop was laying down a few baseball and basketball bets in the sports bar.   I think we all came out ahead, but Tim and I barely missed a big return when this happened at the Masters.   We had a 20-1 or so bet on Jordan to win....he had a tough time on Amen corner.   We also bet wins on Johnson, McIlroy and Scott - all in the top five or so.   Close but no cigar

We ventured out into the casino for some gambling and drinks.    With all of my gambling, I broke even for the weekend...not bad for 4 nights.   At some point we got hungry and stepped outside and found Cabo Wabo Vegas.   We'd been to the one in Cabo, so it seemed right.   A lot of rich Jews eat there.

Back to the casino's after that.   We all got separated for a little while playing our own games - blackjack, paigow, three card, craps...
If they weren't dealing they were dancing

My favorite table
Lesa disappeared around 1AM - she had had plenty to drink.   I turned in around 3AM...went up to the room and someone had gotten fairly sick....in our bed, on some of my clothes, in the Jacuzzi.....it reminded me of when the kids were small.  They'd wander into the bedroom and say "Daddy I don't feel g...." and then shoot a projectile across the room - not on the bathroom tile, but on the bedroom carpet.    I was not there, but it brought back those memories.   I moved as much of it as I could and crawled in bed wondering how T&T were doing.   I had just laid down and Tim called wanting to know our room number again.   30 minutes later they still were not back - I tried to call and no answer.

Remember when I said our room was on a very long hallway way at the end behind 2 black doors.   Tobe and Tim went to our floor, found the hallway, made it to the end, and their key did not work.  Long story short, they had gone through the wrong door and were in Planet Hollywood instead of Elara.   Eventually made it home.   Tim could not wait for the next morning to take and show me the "wrong" hallway and how similar it looked....which it did.   If you were drinking very heavily, it could be an honest mistake.   Tim also relayed to me that Tobe had lost his cell phone somewhere that night.

Turns out that as Tim was trying to find our room, he'd prop Tobe up against a wall to just hang...or to sit down...whichever came first.   We (Tim and I) eventually got a hold of security and a maid who had come across the phone.   Very fine detective work.   Tobe got up late-morning...Mel was arriving around noon.
Tim with the maid that found the phone...$20 reward
Back to Lesa.   It is Saturday morning and our plan entailed meeting Mel at the hotel and then heading out to the ACM Party for a Cause on the Vegas festival grounds.   Lesa crawled out of bed around 8 and called hotel service about her accident.   I kid you not, they showed up in hazmat outfits to clean it up.
Hotel Maid that had to cleanup after Lesa.
Tim had the good idea that Lesa may need help with her hangover....she clearly was not going to make the afternoon Party.   He suggested an oxygen bar (coincidentally there was one by our hotel in the mall).   We drug her down there and then she had these 2 treatments:


Seemed to do the trick.

Melisa made it in on schedule and we took the strip train out to the festival grounds.   There had to be 30-50000 people.   The idea is that they have the party for 3 days - noon to midnight or so each day.  One star emcees the days events and many CW stars come in and perform several songs each.

We elected to go Saturday since we were not all there on Friday and Sunday we had the actual award show to attend.   We snapped a quick picture when we got there in case it was our last group picture ever.
Tobe, Lesa, me, Melisa, Tim
Lesa and Carry Underwood dressed similarly - see below and above.

You can attend all 3 days for $75/day - more for a VIP pass.   You will see everyone that's anyone in current CW music.   You will also see many other things - with that many people, someone is always acting crazy.  Here are a couple - pictures explain it all....we have no clue who Lesa's new freind is.:

In this VIP section we had access to tent and chairs and large women.

You can tell Lesa still had a little queasiness - holding a coke while drinking beer

Chris Janson sang his famous Gonna Buy Me A Boat song while being passed around the crowd in a boat
We all agreed that every CW fan should put this event on their bucket list.   We finished out there around midnight and had to hustle to catch the last train back to our area of the strip.   Girls headed to the sack.  I wasn't far behind.   Not sure what time Tobe and Tim came up, but we were all safely in the sack.

Sunday
Sunday was the big day of the actual ACM awards one sees on TV.   It was in the MGM Grand Ballroom.   We hung out all day by the pool...this was the day we used the cabana.   Felt good to just hang.

Lesa and I got pretty duded up for the event that night.


We are all still looking pretty good for 3 days of hard partying - Mel had to take it easy - Emmalee on her way
Very crowded getting into the ballroom.
Most folks dressed to kill...assigned seats...did terrorist check on the way in.
The sound system inside the MGM ballroom was unbelievable...best concert type event I've been to.

The awards program was hosted by Dierks Bentley and Luke Bryan

Big high lite was seeing Katie Perry sing with Dolly


....and Miranda with ZZTop

When Tim McGraw sang Stay Humble and Kind, all the lights went out
...and everyone raised their bracelet...Lesa still has 2 of them 

We saw Chris Stapleton at this show and the day before at the festival....clearly deserved Male vocalist of year

Nicole Kidman was there with Hubby Keith Urban


My favorite was Carrie Underwood....these big drums just echoed through the place
 I had made reservations at the MGM Steakhouse - CraftSteak - for after the show.   a good thing we had reservations...a line had formed a mile long and we walked right in....I'm sure folks thought we were big dogs.   We did see a few stars as we hung out around MGM.
Tobe, me, Lesa, Melisa, Tim at Craftsteak

Lesa got a birthday desert
After dinner, we did a bit more gambling, but everyone was getting wore out...we were all in the sack by 1AM.  

Monday
On Monday morning, Tobe headed for Houston and Tim and Melisa returned to CA to get the girls before heading home.   Lesa and I checked out on Monday and returned to Celeste's house even though she was still in California.   It was our first experience with Uber and it worked perfect other than the fact I ordered a fancy car that cost more.   Uber has a feature that you can get a regular car or if you are trying to impress a client or something, you slide the bar to indicate your desire for a nice car.   Somehow I did that...cost was double.

When we got to Celeste's we chilled and then hit a small grill and bar to watch NCAA March Madness Finals.  Nice of Celeste to leave us her Mercedes Convertible for transportation.   Ended Lesa's birthday weekend on a high note.  
Celeste has one of these!

We flew back to Dallas and  then drove to Arkansas on Tuesday.

........soon to come on the blog - Jane and Jay in Cabo.

Monday, August 8, 2016

Fishing Trip - July 10-21

Prologue
Approximately 5 years ago, I invested in a simple fly tying station.  I have probably tied 30-50 flies from scuds to woollybuggers to pheasant tails.   As the pictures below show the kit involves a vice, some special tools, spools of thread and wire, hooks, glue and a variety of feathers, hair and other stuff to make flies that resemble an insect for which a trout may be hungry.


Flies are made from feathers, etc

Sample non-fancy flies that I have made


 Lesa and I thought my brother in law, Barry Webster, might also like fly tying - given he usually has 4-5 hobbies going at any one time - cello, duck carving, wood-working, making wine, drinking wine, etc...  Well, he's advanced a bit further than I:
  • He's tied over 5,000 flies and that's just an estimate.  He has multiple tie stations and 2 large containers of cabinets
  • He is a member of both the Dallas and Ft Worth Fly Tie clubs
  • He is on the Board of one of the clubs
  • He has achieved a level of "master Fly Maker" (that's my word for it....) His work had to be judged by multiple other masters and now he is one of less than 100 in the country
  • He goes to Bass Pro each Wednesday night and Saturday morning for a few hours to tie flies with his buddies
Barry and the Grapevine Roadkill Roundtable (Barry is 2nd from Right)

Of course, his flies are everything from plain Jane to very fancy

Anyway, needless to say, Barry is an avid fly maker and fly fisherman.    When we both retired around early 2015, rather than a retirement gift we agreed to go trout fishing for a couple weeks or so.   ...............So continues the remainder of the blog.


Present Day


Roughly speaking, our trip included:
  • Leave Farmers Branch Texas on July 10
  • Two days at Angel Fire, NM and fish Cimarron River and Rio Costio
  • Two days with friends in Bayfield, CO (more later) and fished San Juan River
  • Two days around Mesa Verde National park
  • Three days in Dolores, CO fishing Dolores River and camping
  • 1 Day in Los Alamos, NM fishing Valles Caldera
  • Return home on July 21
We put 2,600 miles on Barry's 2016 Ford F150 and burned 116 gallons of gas

The initial 10 hour drive

We left Barry's house in Farmers Branch, a suburb of Dallas, at about 6 AM.  Truck was loaded with all our fishing equipment, camping equipment (our plan included a few nights of camping) and of course snacks galore.   The most important piece of equipment besides Barry's pickup was his CPAP (snoring supression) machine - we were sharing a room/tent.
At 6AM, it is still dark.  Barry getting ready to roll!
We had plenty of snacks, plus a 1.75 liter of TX whiskey and Bulleit Rye
Bulleit Rye Whiskey on the rocks
TX on the rocks

Our first target stop was to have lunch in Amarillo, TX with Barry's sister, Nancy, and husband James.   Nancy was under the weather and was nice enough to skip lunch so as not to contaminate us.  We did see James though and had a nice visit and lunch.   Amarillo is where Barry grew up.

Shortly before Amarillo is the Big Texan Steak Ranch.  You start seeing ads for the restaurant just outside Dallas - 6 hours away.   It's claim to fame is their 72 oz steak - eat the meal in 1 hour, you get it free.  



From the internet....The record for the shortest time to finish the entire Texas King meal had been held by competitive eating champion Joey Chestnut (at 8 minutes and 52 seconds), breaking Frank Pastore's 1987 record (of 9 minutes 30 seconds, which stood for 21 years) on his March 24, 2008 visit. On May 26, 2014, he was bested by 125-pound competitive eater Molly Schuyler, who polished off the meal in just 4 minutes 58 seconds, and came back for seconds (14 minutes and 57 seconds for two meals). She did not, however, eat a third steak meal in the same hour. Schuyler returned on April 19, 2015 and would finish her first meal in 4 minutes 18 seconds, beating her own record by 40 seconds. She had defeated four other teams of competitors in the challenge, devouring two more meals in twenty minutes. The unofficial record (for all animals, including humans) is held by a 500-pound Siberian tiger, who ate the steak in 90 seconds.

Eat this meal in 1 hour to win

Also near the Amarillo hotspot is the Cadillac Ranch.....a true tourist attraction and in the middle of a field.   There were hundreds of folks stopping by as Barry and I checked it out.
Barry


Me

Cadillac Ranch consists of 10 half buried Cadillacs.  Why?  No clue...I guess because Stanley Marsh (initial funder and land owner) could.  Best I can tell the cars are no longer operational.


Angel Fire Area

We arrived at Angel Fire, NM at around 4:30 PM MDT.   Angel Fire is probably best known as a ski area, but in the summer horseback riding, zip-lining, golf, and fishing are all available .   We stayed at one of our RCI Timeshare places - the Angel Fire Resort - the Eagle Wing.   Nice room, but we lost power one afternoon and the room had 2 beds - make that 2 sleeping surfaces - a pullout couch and a pull out murphy bed.  They were ok though.

Angel Fire Resort
We met our fishing guide at 8:00 am.  Barry had found Doc Thompson through some referrals and also Doc is a certified Orvis Guide.   Fishing guides are expensive, so we had agreed to fish both ways - with and without guides.  Doc was an excellent choice.   He had an arrangement with a local rancher to take us on private land...obviously, no other fisherman on this part of the Cimarron and having fished it several times, Doc knew where all the good fishing holes were.   Barry accused Doc of knowing all the fish's names, too.  
Me in fishing garb with Doc getting rod ready to go

Barry in his garb and Doc getting ready to go - Doc was not big on looking up

Barry and Doc in preparation.

The interesting and challenging aspect to fly fishing is the typical trout is looking for the insect of the day...depends on weather, what is hatching, etc.    Many times, the Guide will pump the stomach of the first trout you catch to see what they've been eating.   You'd better be correct on 4 fronts - the fly 1. size, 2. shape (profile) and 3. color have to replicate the insect of the day, and 4. you'd better be able to cast the fly rod line into tight spots.  Trout have about a 12 inch viewing filter as they look for food.  When Doc says to cast to a pool behind the rock and under the branch and maybe 20-30 feet away...you'd better do it if you want to catch a fish.    There were quite a few times that Barry and I would have needed the trout to be a bird fish or a flying fish as we missed the spot and snagged in trees or grass.   In general though we were pretty good. 

Cimarron River is very clear, maybe a couple feet deep and not too wide.
Plenty of things to get snagged in
Doc had to call the game warden several times while we fished.   When we arrived at the fishing spot, there was a dead deer or elk in the river.   He suspected poaching.   The game warden wanted Doc (and us to help) to pull the deer out of the river.   We all agreed that we'd end up with a leg or something in our hands...just wasn't that appealing; so Doc told the warden to handle...sounded like they were good acquaintances.


A nice little Rainbow

Barry's got one on the line.  You really have to keep the line tight
or the trout will spit the fly out and be on his way

Me taking a picture of Doc taking a picture of
Barry catching another 
This is one of those where Doc said to hit that area just to the left of the grass, but watch out for that tree sticking out


Got one

Netted this one myself...hard to do...fish does
 not want to get into the net.   Doc said my net sucked and I needed a new one that was not so hard on the fish
In all, we caught 25-30 trout from about 9-3 with an hour off to eat lunch.   We do all catch and release so that we can come back and catch the same fish again - barbless hooks, handle them carefully.  Doc supplied lunch - he served a caesar chicken wrap with fruit and then chocolate.   Actually set up a table and chairs for us.    I really enjoyed Doc's guidemanship.   I've had guides before and he was clearly the best ever.   He spent a lot of time with casting tips and describing how to identify a good casting target.    He'd fish with me for awhile and then fish with Barry for awhile.   We leapfrogged down the river covering about 1.5 miles.  

After we got home that day, I decided I should run.   Ran from the ski area on the mountain down to the village and back.   Altitude seems to make a difference.   Angel Fire Resort sits at about 8,600 feet elevation.   Actually has the 5th highest airport in the US.   I wasn't sure I'd make it back up...almost called Barry to come get me.  We had dinner then at a small pub and grill - which also lost its power...beer was cold though.

Before proceeding into Colorado, Barry and I fished again the following morning.   Doc Thompson suggested that Rio Costilla in Valle Vidal might be good as it was on the route to Colorado.   From the internet...The Valle Vidal (The Valley of Life) unit of the Carson National Forest was donated to the People of the United States by the Pennzoil Company in 1982. This lush mountain basin, located in the heart of New Mexico's Sangre de Cristo Mountains, is home to a magnificent elk herd and other abundant wildlife. The vistas of high peaks, forests, and alpine meadows are breathtaking. With elevations of 7,700-12,584 feet, the plant life is abundant and varied.

The trip took us on every kind of road you can imagine from paved to 1 lane gravel.   Many elevation changes.  There is a huge campground just outside the national reserve sign.   We had bought the NM fishing license that allowed us to go inside the national forest.  Quite a few campers were fishing - the river runs through the campground for several miles.   Probably worth considering in the future for fishing/camping.
The day we were there the water was running very fast and it was near impossible to track a dry fly.
We weren't sure where the water was coming from - it had not rained and didn't see snow melt.
Nice setting though for fishing.

Valle Vidal
 Typically when Barry and I fish with a Guide, we catch lots of fish.   I guess with the water running fast and having a rookie Guide, we didn't do well in the fishing department.   Our Guide seemed nice enough though.
NM Fishing Guide


After lunch, we headed to Bayfield, CO (by Durango).


Bayfield / Durango / San Juan River

The route to Bayfield had some cool rock structures.  One of the most well known is Chimney Rock in Colorado, although I think each state that has a mountain also has a Chimney Rock.  Looks like over time it is just coming apart and the sediment lands at it's feet.
Chimney Rock
One issue we had with all of our drives was that it was political national convention time.   All that was on the radio was talking heads that think they are smarter than everyone else in the world.   Barry let them have it a few times and yelled at the radio.   Didn't seem to effect them much.

Back in the 80's/90's, Barry and I worked for IBM.   In fact, I've known Barry longer than I've known Lesa.   Barry introduced me to Lesa...as I was single and Lesa was his wife Teresa's sister.   Clearly, Lesa was looking for a hunk like me.

During our stint with IBM, we had a co-worker - Tom Ware.   Barry and Tom were good friends. Tom's wife Georgia was also an IBMer.  At the time I didn't know Georgia, this was our first introduction.   They moved to Colorado and solicited Barry to help build a log house...at least help with the plumbing and mechanical systems.   Subsequently, Barry has earned a lifetime timeshare at the house. They have added hundreds of additional square feet.  They had a fire where the chimney came apart - no one hurt, but some major damage.   Sure can't tell it by looking....he fixed that all himself, too.  Tom took me through the photo album of the initial 2-week effort.   They slept in tents at night and piled long wall logs, one atop the other, up to 30-40 feet high...just using ladders.   Lots of great stories and no one was killed.

The house is 1 of 50 or so really nice homes in an area that is bordered on 3 sides by a National Forest - a few miles out of Bayfield and 30 minutes from Durango.  It's just a phenomenal place.   Internet access is still measured in bits per second versus GB/sec, but who cares...life is good!   Deer, elk, bears, turkeys...you name it!

Tom and Georgia Ware - hard to believe Tom is in his mid-70's.  Obviously married a child bride.

We had such a great time discussing old times at IBM....do you remember this person or do you remember when that happened...it was great.   Plus Tom and Georgia served us dinner and breakfast.  The Ware's own a large RV and my hope is that they go East to Tulsa (a daughter is there) and spend another 1.5 hour and come see us in Arkansas.

The first morning at the Ware's,the four of us took a 5 mile hike into the national forest.   A regular event for them - pretty country.   After the forest jaunt, Barry and I went to Durango and Tom chopped or at least moved a bunch of wood around.   He chops and splits 6 cords of wood each winter....not bad for an old guy.  

Barry and I took a planned day off fishing and went into Durango.   We met Tom and Georgia there a bit later in the day for dinner at the Mahogany Grill in the famous Strater Hotel.   Durango is a fun little city - a lot of shops, restaurants....kind of like you'd expect in a ski or vacation village.   Plenty of activities there or within an hour to make it a weekend destination.  
Strater Hotel


Stage Coaches still roll in Durango


There are some mean looking hombres
One of the most famous parts of Durango is the Durango-Silverton train ride.   We didn't take the train as it's a 1/2 day ride each way through the mountains.   We spent a couple hours in the train museum and saw several 1000's square feet of elaborate model railroads as well as retired engines, cabooses and other equipment from the 1800's.  
Durango - Silverton is Mountainous train ride

Wednesday morning, we left the Ware's and headed to the San Juan River to fish.   The river is famous for it's trout fishing, but there are literally hundreds of folks fishing below the dam.   Two of them were Barry and I.   Tom drove over to watch, but the area is not conducive to trout fishing spectating. 
Water is extremely clear.  River is wide and lots of fisherman.  Barry in foreground.
  
20+ inch Brown - a foot from my waders



20+ inch Rainbow 2 feet from my waders
15-25 inch trout were floating everywhere, but we nor most of the other fisherman could not get them to take a fly.   Barry and I do catch and release, so from our perspective it was just awesome to see them hovering by your boots.   Easily could have dipped a net in and caught my largest trout ever. The trout hope you move your foot and stir up scuds from the bottom of the river. We found out from our next Guide who fishes there often, you have to ignore all of those big trout....they have Phd's in not getting caught....you should fish other areas.   I'd clearly use a Guide if I fish the San Juan again - the big fish are there.

The river was very wide so Barry could practice some very nice fly casts

...and not worry about trees and bushes.
We finished fishing about noon and headed to Mesa Verde National Park - about an hours drive.   Barry had been there in the past, but this was my first.



Mesa Verde National Park

From the internet .....Mesa Verde National Park is a National Park and World Heritage Site located in Colorado. It protects some of the best preserved Ancestral Puebloan archeological sites in the United States.  Created by President Theodore Roosevelt in 1906, it occupies 52,485 acres with more than 4,300 sites, including 600 cliff dwellings, it is the largest archeological preserve in the US. Mesa Verde (Spanish for "green table") is best known for structures such as Cliff Palace, thought to be the largest cliff dwelling in North America.

Mesa Verde is visible from nearly the time we left the San Juan River from fishing.   The park and all of the Pueblo attractions are on top of the mesa (see picture).  The mesa ranges from 6000 feet elevation to 8600 feet.   When you start the winding climb up the mountain, you are about 30 minutes from the park entrance and then another 2-4 hours of driving around to see all the dwellings...it is massive.  A lot of pretty scenery although I had to quit telling Barry "look at that" - the car seemed to pull the direction is head turned and I got a bit worried with all the drop offs and hairpin turns....glad he was driving.   Mesa Verde is a popular spot in the Tony Hillerman novels.  The lodge we stayed had every one of his novels available - kind of cool.

Table Mesa runs from 6000-8600 elevation

Note: not sure why fonts change, etc....not going to fret over it.

Our first stop was the Ranger station to get the lay of the land.   We bought our 3 tickets for the next days tour of the dwellings $4 each.   My National Park Pass saved us $15-20.  If you are over 62, you should have one.   Every tour is selling out - Mesa Verde ranks up there with Yellowstone and other top national parks.   After the ranger station, we headed for the Far View Lodge - our home for a couple nights.   It sits at the top of a bluff overlooking miles and miles of Colorado land.   Far View has a nice bar and an excellent 4-5 star restaurant - Metate Room.

Our room was on the far right #201.  Every room has a balcony and no rooms
have TV...however wifi was plentiful
While the room looks spacious through this lens, it is probably 10x20.   The bathroom
had a toilet and shower...reminded me of an airplane bathroom.   
We had dinner at the lodge after a few concoctions of our TX and Bulleit whiskey.   The restaurant was incredible.   Barry had the Roasted Corn on the Cob and Chili Rellano.  I tried the Rattlesnake and Pheasant sausage with the Pan Seared Trout.  Some of the best food I've ever had and clearly the best on the trip - unless the Ware's are reading this, then the dinner they served was the best and this was second.
Barry's Roasted corn...I ate my food before we could get a picture
I'll put some pictures of the pueblo cliff dwellings that Barry and I visited, but you should put a visit on your bucket list.  1. I can't imagine building these.   2. The work commute was climbing up a 40-100 foot cliff face using finger and toe holds  3. The dwellings had to be abandoned over time because food sources were being depleted on the Mesa Verde.   When you visit, stop by the museum - great pictures and stories of the inhabitants.  We visited 3 main sites - Balcony House, Cliff Palace and Long House.


The Indians would see a significant carve out of a cliff and build an impenetrable village inside.
This one is know as Balcomy House.   They believe Balcony House held 25-30 people and 4-5 families.  A lot of work to build this for 4-5 families.
Most of our tours involved climbing down steps and then back up ladders to enter.
Obviously could not come in directly from the top, although the Indians did...they did not use ladders - toe and hand holds in the rock face.


The Balcony House had one entry/exit - unless you wanted to come down the cliff. They believe a single child could have protected the families.   We had the experience of crawling through the 10 foot entry/exit tunnel to leave the Balcony House.   You can see from Barry above it is a very tight squeeze and you are crawling on rock for 10 feet (and hitting your head).
Kiva - a gathering place
 The picture is a Kiva.   The ceiling has fallen in or was removed during excavation.   Each extended family, think of a Grandpa, sons and their kids - they might have a kiva.   Meetings and special events were in the kiva.   The kiva had a ceiling with a hole in the middle and you entered down into the kiva via a ladder.  By looking at the number of kiva's, historians can guess how many families and people were in the cliff dwelling.  The kiva had fire and ventilation holes....pretty advanced.  The other rooms you'd find were sleeping rooms, food storage rooms and perhaps a cooking room.


Barry photoing a kiva

Kiva's and other room types are interspersed...no particular order.
This would be great for paint balling.



Each tour was lead by a Ranger.   This guy was a hoot.  He grew up a few miles away in a village called Mancos.  When he was small he used to come up and explore these dwellings before they were only accessible via tours.   He says when you get back in some of the rooms, it's pretty eerie.    

This is Cliff Palace.   The place held an estimated 85-100 people.
You can see all the Kiva's which indicates the multiple families.  I took this picture off a balcony on the way down..which indicates the climbs we had to make.    By the way, while the men farmed and hunted, one of the women's tasks was to get water.   Mesa Verde had no water, so if you didn't catch rain, you put a bowl on your head and walked the many miles to the bottom of the Mesa Verde plateau to the Mancos River and carried it back up.  Woman have it so easy now days.  

Rangers built steps so we would not have to climb too many ladders to get out of Cliff Palace.   The fence on Barry's left protects him from a 1000 foot drop.

This is Long House.  We walked about 1.5 miles to get to it....it was 95 degrees.   The Ranger insisted that we each have 2 bottles of water along.   Could have used three.  Once there, there were 200-300 steps to go down to get to the Long House.   Long House was nice as they'd let you do a bit more exploring and touching.   The return trip was grueling - back up the steps and back the 1.5 miles (no trees for shade).
 Again, these pictures don't do justice...the Ranger stories and the in person experience was awesome.   We left the next morning for the Dolores River and Priest Gulch Campground.



Priest Gulch Campground and Dolores River

Part of our ambition was to camp a few nights while we fished.   Barry had heard of Priest Gulch Campground from someone that waltzed into BassPro to watch him tie flies.   The place was great.   As a testimony to that, 80% of the people in the campground are in giant RV's...there are only 4 tent sites.   Most of the RV's have been coming there for 7-8 years and get on waiting lists to improve their spot on the river.   Most stay for 2-3 months at a time.


The Dolores River runs through the campground.   We fished other parts of the Dolores.


Our home away from home...listen to the river babbling each night.
Boy scout Barry
Had to have fire so we could have brats and beans

A little hard to see, but a fox (center) in our neighbor camp area at 6 AM the next morning.  I came across the fox again the next morning....must like the food there.  He said he was not a relative of ML and Amelia Fox.
We had to meet our Guide at the campground office at 8:30.  Had a nice breakfast prior to that.
Hmmmm Good!  Pancakes, sausage, eggs and coffee

While in Durango, we ventured into a fly shop (imagine that) and signed up to use a Guide 2 days later in a location 60 miles from Durango.  Barry and I were a bit nervous about our Guide.  No recommendations on him and we were just hoping he showed up - we had no phone number for him and we'd already put 1/2 the fee down.      When he got there, he said he'd not fished the Dolores River area before....we both kind of looked at each other.   Then he wanted to borrow Barry's fishing maps to find turnout points, etc...   He was a young guy...told us that none of the old guys wanted to drive 60 miles from Durango over to our place...on a Sunday.

Turns out that Les Vance was an excellent Guide.     He was what we truly needed to advance 1 notch in fly fishing.   Having not fished here before, like us (only way the heck more knowledgeable) Les had to figure out where were the fishing holes and what were the fish eating.   When Barry and I go fishing without a Guide, that's what we need to be able to do.  Guides like Doc Thompson and people I used in Utah are great, but they know their rivers by heart.   Les has fished New Zealand and Argentina...great stories, like all Guides.

This was fun! The only negative was that for the first hour, we were in an area where thousands of moth had just hatched or something....but the fish were not going to bite.  Les got us off of that and we went to the Dolores West Fork (no moths), but a good 3/4 mile walk.    We ended up catching another 25-30 trout.   Barry caught browns, rainbows and a cutthroat.   I had browns and rainbows.
These are husks of hatched stone flies...this is the kind of stuff Les looked for.
 Following are some pictures of Les fishing with Barry.   Like Doc, Les expected us to hit a 2x2 foot square in the water below the tree, but above the log in the water!!!



Barry shooting for the seam between the rapids and the still water.   Also, according to Doc, the bubbles were like the buffet bar to the fish.
Let the dry fly drift down the river and wait for the strike

Changing flies for Barry and checking down river to see where he wanted Barry to throw.


Drying his fly
 Following are some pictures of Les fishing with me.    I started with my orange hat and Les told me that the fish could see me.  So now I have one Guide said my net sucked and this one told me that my hat sucked....learning!!

Got one

More than likely, I caught that log and lost my fly.   Nice having Les around so I didn't have to tie those little things.

Another one

Probably another tree caught
All in all, it was great to fish with Les.   Kind of a crap shoot when you hire a Guide at the last minute...Barry and I should have been in Vegas - we were lucky.   As Doc did, Les would fish with me for awhile and then Barry.   The day ended with Les and me  fishing.   When we walked back up the river to find Barry, we found him doing secret fish Yoga moves.
Don't ask me, I just take the pictures!!


After fishing that day, we went back to the campground, showered up, and made cheese burgers with chips, etc... to go with our TX and Bulleit.    Nothing tastes better than food cooked at a campfire or on a camp stove.

One thing about camping, and drinking; getting up in the night 3 times to pee is disruptive.   Is there anything louder than a tent unzipping and zipping back up.    And while you may only venture 10-15 feet from the tent (hopefully on the down hill side), you hear a variety of bears, cougars, tigers and other Sasquatch related beings.   While the tent wall is 1/16 inch thick, it feels very safe to get back inside.

The next morning came the test.   Fishing without a Guide!   Would we do our typical maybe get 1 or 2 fish, or did we learn something from Les?    I'm here to tell you, with what we learned about the flies and where to fish, we pulled in  (and released) another 15-20 trout.   It was a great 2 days of fishing on the Dolores.

Note...I have no clue why the font got larger here!

After a second day of fishing we decided to drive to Telluride (50-60 miles) for dinner.   I've been there skiing a few times, but this was Barry's first trip.    Telluride is a great ski town, but it seems it may even be busier in the summer.   Supposedly replacing Aspen/Vale as the place to be seen.  Telluride's main drag is about 1/4 to 1/2 mile long of shop after shop.   
Telluride has a multitude of festivals from Independence day
to a major film festival to winter snow festivals
The next morning, after 3 great nights of camping, we pulled up the tent and all the equipment and headed back to the south towards Los Alamos and Valles Caldera.



 Los Alamos and Valles Caldera

From the internet, About 1.25 million years ago, a spectacular volcanic eruption created the 13-mile circular depression now know as the Valles Caldera.  The preserve is known for its huge mountain meadows, abundant wildlife and meandering streams.  The 95,000 acre area was sold to the US government under President Bill Clinton in 2000 by the Dunigan family for $101 million.

We had a fairly long drive to Valles Caldera from Priest Gulch....Like most of the drives in upper NM and lower CO, there are cool land formations that must have been left by glaciers and volcanos...they are just in the middle of nowhere and may stick up 5,000 feet.   One was Ship Rock.  I personally thought another looked more like a ship, but this is ship rock.
Ship Rock

We arrived in the Los Alamos, NM area around 2:30 pm or so.   We took the opportunity to run up to the Valles Caldera National Preserve and check out the fishing logistics.   Valles Caldera is set up so they only allow 30 cars access to the preserve each day.   The front gate opens at 8 and the Ranger building (about a 10 minute drive from the gate) opens at 8:30.   The first 30 cars fish...the rest go home - especially on weekends.  The Ranger told us that since it was a Wednesday, we'd be okay, but we targeted to get there 7:45 or so.

We drove back to our hotel after checking out the fishing area.   We stayed at a Hampton Inn...nice place.   Went into Los Alamos for dinner.   The restaurant we selected had an appetizer item called Scotch Egg.   I'd not heard of it before and tried it....really good.  Basically a hot sausage ball wrapped around a hard boiled egg.
Scotch Egg (half eaten)
Out of the sack at 6:30 and head back up to the national preserve.  We got there at 7:40 or so and were the second in line.   Ranger Judy showed up right at 8 am and opened the gate.   We had a great surprise while driving from the gate to the Ranger Building.   A herd of over 100 elk were grazing by the road.  Not the best pictures, but these are what I got.
Elk at Valles Caldera


Ranger Judy checked us in at 8:30 and by 8:40 we were driving towards the back of the preserve (10 miles of rough gravel roads) to the San Antonio River.   Cool drive back to the fishing area although it is not well marked.   At one point you are routed through the old Dunigan Working Ranch buildings.   For the most part though it is a wide open prairie for as far as you can see.   The river runs through the prairie but unlike most rivers, this one is small and has no trees....pretty hard to see.

When you fish in Valles Caldera it is very different fishing.   The streams are very small (3-5 feet wide) and the fish can see you standing along side the stream - you don't get in...so in most cases, you sneak up to the river and fish from your knees.

After parking and gearing up, we had a 1/2 mile walk to the stream.  Barry is heading out.   As I said, trees to not outline the stream....we just assume there is one down there.

Lots of these guys that were curious as to who we were
The size of the creek is very small...however, I was not going to kneel to fish.
We ended up catching a dozen trout on flies that looked like beetle bugs that Barry had made, however, the largest fish was about 6 inches.   Other than seeing the reserve, I probably would not go back and fish here....lots of work, bees flying everywhere and very small, skittish fish.

We finished up fishing a little after noon and made the decision to head for Texas and go as far as we could go until we were too tired to drive.    After 30 minutes, I guess we were anxious to get home...we decided to drive it - about 12 hours - 4 three hour shifts - pulling into Farmer Branch around midnight.


Of course we had to have a night cap of TX and Bulleit.   The next morning, we slept in until around 8.  We unpacked the pickup and I loaded my stuff into my pickup and headed for Arkansas.  

In all, I guess we caught and released 75-90 trout; no trophies, but some nice size, fun to catch fish. We met a couple of great Guides, rekindled old relationships from IBM, saw some cool landmarks and native Indian pueblo's.  On top of that, it was 10 days of fishing with my Brother in law Barry - what could be better than that.   Talk about low stress and high fun!